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Whenever assembling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred establishments. However, nestled near the top among these food titans is a modest salonu located in a distant part of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

The small Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The recognition has made the family totally astonished.

“I’m completely astonished,” states a family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their small shop earning such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has kept much of its earlier character. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this eatery certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.